:root{--ink:#102f3d;--blue:#123c4a;--paper:#f8f9f6;--muted:#52666d;--line:#cbd5d5;--accent:#dbe9c8}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:100px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.65 Arial,sans-serif}a{color:inherit}button,input{font:inherit}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #689ab4;outline-offset:5px}.skip{position:absolute;left:20px;top:-100px}.skip:focus{top:10px;z-index:10;background:white;padding:12px}.wrap{max-width:1440px;margin:auto;padding:0 6%}header{height:104px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px}.brand{text-decoration:none;font:28px/1 Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-1px}.brand span{display:block;font:10px/2.4 Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacing:3px;text-transform:uppercase}nav{display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:center;font-size:14px}nav 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/* Modernist brand and destination guide */
.brand{position:relative;padding-left:62px;min-height:48px;display:flex;justify-content:center;flex-direction:column}.brand .brand-icon{position:absolute;left:0;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);width:48px;height:48px;border-radius:8px}.brand .brand-name{display:block;font:28px/1 Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-1px;text-transform:none}.guide-teaser{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:30px 8%;padding-top:0;align-items:center}.guide-teaser p{color:var(--muted)}.guide-teaser .teaser-photo img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;display:block}.photo-credit{grid-column:1/-1;font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;margin:0}.breadcrumbs{display:flex;gap:14px;font-size:13px;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted)}.breadcrumbs a{text-decoration:none}.guide-heading{padding:55px 0 40px;max-width:1000px}.guide-heading h1{font:clamp(43px,5.1vw,72px)/1.1 Georgia,serif;letter-spacing:-2px;margin:0 0 30px}.guide-heading h1 em{font-weight:400;color:#497078}.guide-deck{font-size:21px;line-height:1.55;max-width:750px;color:var(--muted)}.guide-byline{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}.guide-cover{margin:0 0 65px}.guide-cover>img{width:100%;height:auto;max-height:600px;object-fit:cover;display:block}.guide-cover figcaption,.inline-photo figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:12px;line-height:1.5}.guide-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:260px minmax(0,1fr);gap:8%;padding-bottom:80px}.guide-toc{position:sticky;top:35px;align-self:start;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:25px}.guide-toc nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;gap:0}.guide-toc nav a{display:block;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:13px 0;font-size:14px;line-height:1.5}.guide-toc .text-link{margin-top:20px}.guide-article{max-width:850px}.guide-article .lead{font:25px/1.5 Georgia,serif}.guide-article>p,.guide-article section>p{color:var(--muted)}.guide-article strong{color:var(--ink)}.guide-article section{padding:48px 0 12px}.guide-article h2{font-size:42px;margin-bottom:25px}.guide-article h3{font-size:29px;margin:32px 0 16px}.guide-article p{line-height:1.8}.source-link{display:block;font-size:13px;margin-top:10px;text-underline-offset:3px}.guide-tip{margin:28px 0;padding:25px 30px;border-left:3px solid #67918d;background:#e8eef0}.guide-tip p{font-size:16px;margin:8px 0 0}.inline-photo{margin:30px 0 0}.inline-photo img{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.itinerary{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:25px}.itinerary>div{background:#e8eef0;padding:26px}.itinerary h3{font-size:27px;margin-top:15px}.itinerary ol{padding-left:20px;font-size:16px}.itinerary li{margin:18px 0;line-height:1.7}.practical-list{padding-left:22px}.practical-list li{margin:20px 0;color:var(--muted)}.guide-article section.guide-stay{background:var(--ink);color:white;margin-top:50px;padding:38px}.guide-stay h2{color:white}.guide-article .guide-stay p{color:#d6e1e3}.guide-stay .btn{background:var(--accent);color:var(--ink)}.guide-stay .text-link{display:table;margin-top:20px;color:white}.guide-editorial{font-size:13px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:25px;margin-top:40px}body:has(.guide-article) .mobile-cta{display:none}
@media(max-width:1050px){.guide-layout{grid-template-columns:220px minmax(0,1fr);gap:5%}.itinerary{grid-template-columns:1fr}header nav{gap:17px}.brand .brand-name{font-size:25px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.guide-layout{display:block}.guide-toc{position:static;margin-bottom:35px}.guide-toc nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 22px}.guide-toc nav>a:not(.btn){display:block}.guide-toc .text-link{display:none}.guide-cover{margin-bottom:35px}.guide-article{max-width:100%}.guide-heading{padding-top:30px}.guide-deck{font-size:18px}.guide-article h2{font-size:36px}.guide-article h3{font-size:27px}.guide-teaser{grid-template-columns:1fr}.guide-teaser .teaser-photo img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.guide-article section.guide-stay{padding:27px}.guide-heading h1{font-size:45px}.guide-article .lead{font-size:23px}}
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.guide-toc nav>a:not(.btn){display:block}